
The
Manso River is the natural path of water cutting across the migrational
barrier of the Andes of Patagonia to the ocean. Along the Manso's shores,
animals and then travelers formed paths that allowed for cultures to spread
and cities to propagate.

Between
towering peaks and dense jungle lies the natural path of water flowing
from East to West - the Rio Manso. The Manso headwaters lie high up in
the cordillera of Parque Nahuel Huapi, Argentina. The river begins its
descent out of the Andes traveling Southeast towards the Atlantic. After
passing through several lakes, the Manso has a change of heart and cuts
back to the West, cutting a deep gorge into the mountains of its source.
There, the Manso is not as tranquil as its name suggests. Laden with large
boulders within narrow gorges,
the river becomes progressively steeper, until a few kilometers before
it enters the wide-open valley of the Rio Puelo. From this confluence,
the large volume of the Puelo meanders to the coast, passing through Lago
Tagua-Tagua before reaching the expanse of the Pacific Ocean. Horse trails
run along both sides of the Manso River, connecting small farms to pueblos
and making the horse the only means of transportation for locals. Most
of the valley's inhabitants are self-sufficient, growing their own food
and selling cattle for the few commodities that the closest towns have
to offer. Though the landscape offers beauty, the environment is harsh
with difficult winters.
In
the Mapuche language, mapu means land and che means people. The Mapuche,
who numbered roughly two million before before the arrival of the Spanish,
were the first inhabitants of the Southern half of the area today known
as Chile and Argentina. The Northern Mapuche border formed by war against
the Incas was the valley of the Rio Maule. North of the Maule, the Inca
territory extended through Ecuador. The Mapuche nation was comprised of
both sedentary and nomadic communities: hunters and gatherers, shepherds,
farmers and fishermen. Though the communities were of different regions
with distinct cultures, they had a strong sense of unity. They were able
to defend themselves against the Incas and later held off the persistent
Spanish for hundreds of years. Ironically, the Spanish were initially
welcomed by the Mapuche, even though they came with the intention of settling
in Mapuche land. The
Mapuche opposed the Spanish only after it became obvious that they intended
to dominate the Mapuche. The Spanish failed with each attempt to conquer
the Mapuche and with each failure, the Spanish made treaties defining
peaceful terms and boundaries. Each treaty was subsequently broken by
the Spanish - the Spanish kidnapped Mapuches for slaves and continually
encroached on Mapuche land. The cycle continued and the Spanish lost approximately
50,000 soldiers in their campaign - more than all other Spanish conquests
in the Americas combined. Along with war, the Spanish brought diseases
such as yellow fever, measles and smallpox against which the Mapuche had
no defense. Unlike the Mapuche, the Incas were defeated by the Spanish.
In 1810, anti-royalists from Chile and Argentina claimed independence
and defeated the Spanish. The Mapuche nation was finally defeated by both
the Chilean and Argentinean armies in 1885. Many people were either killed
or forced from their homes to live impoverished lives in small rural communities
and in the cities. Currently, there are still approximately 1.7 million
Mapuche still living in Southern Argentina and Chile .
Outlaws
from the United States, Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid traveled to
Patagonia with Sundance's girlfriend, Etta, in the early 1900's and became
respectable stockmen, settling in Cholila, Argentina - country prime for
cattle. For five years they worked a 12,000 acre ranch and like most ranchers
in the area, they rode the trail between Cholila and Puerto Montt to get
supplies.
"I
visited the best cities and best parts of South A[merica] till I got here.
And this part of the country looked so good that I located, and I think
for good." - Butch Cassidy.
It
is unclear as to why the trio left, though some believe that the beef
syndicate of Southern Argentina forced the outlaws to sell their ranch
by alerting bounty hunters from the United States of their presence in
Patagonia. Both the Sundance Kid and Butch Cassidy were killed in Bolivia
after returning to their old life of robbery.
Even
before man appeared in this Patagonian region, the environment was majestic:
abundant precipitation and wide watersheds allowed for exuberant vegetation
on the mountain slopes where the cypress and the gigantic coihue reign.
A wide variety of underbrush and natural pastures gave shelter to a rich
fauna, including guanacos, ñandúes and huemules. The transparent
water of rivers and lakes was inhabited by percas and huillines. From
East to West, the steppe turned into a wood, and this into a rain forest.
Wild strawberries, michay, taique, amancay and mutisias covered the land
in colors, while up in the sky, the condor contemplated this majestic
natural scenery.
Man
appeared here, many thousands of years ago, after glaciars burst into
the valley of the Nahuel Huapi. Tehuelches, Puelches and Pehuenches lived
here until the second half of the17th century, when their cultures were
absorbed by a stronger, more evolved one, the Araucan, from the old Chilean
territory. They penetrated East through the Andes, and imprinted their
culture to all those living in Patagonia. They discovered and used different
paths through the Cordillera de los Andes to enter Argentine territory.
The Spanish living in Chile also used the same paths since 1550. The Spanish
Captain Juan Fernández, while searching for the "City of Caesars",
used this path through Peulla, and arrived for the first time to the branch
Blest of Lake Nahuel Huapi. Others followed his route in their conquering
anxiety, gradually penetrating in this territory of lakes.
Since
1653, the Jesuits, while on an evangelizing mission, traveled around the
region, and used these paths as well. Some scientists were later sent
from Chile to study the characteristics of the region. These were the
domains of Cacique Saihueque: the "Country of Apples", consisting
of thick forests reaching towards the sky and crystalline rivers descending
towards the big blue lake. In 1872, the Argentine authorities began organizing
expeditions to those places occupied by aborigines with the idea of future
conquering campaigns.
During
the 1880's, the Argentine army advanced into the region with the intention
of growing its territories. They also mapped Nahuel Huapi's lakes and
rivers. In 1892, the first white settlers arrived to the coast of Lake
Nahuel Huapi, some coming from the Atlantic and others from the Pacific.
In this first immigration there were American and German settlers. Carlos
Wietherholdt, a German trader, initiated commercial activity in the region
by building his first house and shop where San Carlos de Bariloche would
later be formed. He also began trading with Puerto Montt, where he exported
wool, leather, potatoes, cheese, butter and other products.
In
1897 there were 14 settlers scattered around lake Nahuel Huapi whose main
activities were agriculture and cattle farming. Sawmills, blacksmith's
shops and milk farms started working that year, and handicraft ships were
made to transport merchandise. Then more settlers came from Viedma and
Carmen de Patagones.
In
1901, a group of Swiss immigrants arrived, and thus shaping a heterogeneous
population. People from different nationalities but with the same spirit
of work and sacrifice pioneered this territory.
San
Carlos de Bariloche was officially founded on the 3rd of May of 1902.
It was named San Carlos in honor of Mr. Wiederhold and Bariloche from
the indian term Vuriloche. Towards the end of the summer of Bariloche's
founding year the first so-called tourists came to Nahuel Huapi from Buenos
Aires: Aarón Anchorena, Carlos Lamarca and Esteban Lavallol. The
first road for cars to Bariloche was completed in 1913. In 1921, the first
airplane flew into Bariloche .
Puerto
Varas was founded in 1854 by colonizer Vicente Pérez Rosales as
a lake navigation center and commercial port to Puerto Montt. Tourism
began in 1934 with the opening of the Hotel Puerto Varas, which is now
a casino. Soon after, the road to Ensenada opened along the southern shore
of the lake. Today, both Puerto Varas and Ensenada are beach resorts.
Horses
inhabited Chile and Argentina in the Pleistocene era, but then disappeared
by recent history until the Spanish arrived with them. The Mapuche incorporated
them into their lives and utilized them in defense of the conquistadors.
Horses also allowed the Mapuche to easily spread into the Argentine pampa.
There are still no motorized vehicles or roads in many areas including
the Manso valley, thus the horse remains the vehicle of choice.
The
Criollo is a strong sure-footed breed of Argentina. Tack is distinctive
of the Southern Andes - similar to the English saddle, but softer with
a sheepskin cover .
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